TT.Mk1 Oil and Filter Change 3.2 Engine

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Back to 2000-2005 (Mk1)

Submitted by: Marc3.2TT

Entered by: MarTT

1. Jack the front wheels up, or use a couple of ramps to give yourself more clearance:

File:oilchange01.jpg

2. Remove the underbelly pan, here it is taken off from the car:

File:oilchange02.jpg

There are a lot of "fasteners" that need to be removed. Given the color-coding above, here's what has to be removed:

a) the blue fastners are flat-head screws that turn 90 degrees and stay on the panel, they're off to the side in front of the wheels:

File:oilchange03.jpg

b) the yellow fasteners are T45 torx bolts, note that many of these were actually stripped (need new ones now):

File:oilchange04.jpg

c) the 2 red fasteners are huge 12-point "triple square" bolts, which I had a hard time finding the tool for:

File:oilchange05.jpg

The technical term for the required bit to remove the tool is XZN114, which translates to a 14mm triple-square or 12-point bit. Here's the kit that I bought from Autodax, which includes the 14mm bit:

File:oilchange06.jpg

3. After the underbelly pan is finally removed, locate the oil pan:

File:oilchange07.jpg

This is the bolt you want to remove to drain the oil, it's a 19mm hex:

File:oilchange08.jpg

4. Locate the oil filter housing, which is just in front of the oil pan:

File:oilchange09.jpg

You'll first need to remove the hex bolt to drain the rest of the oil from the filter housing, then remove the housing itself. My recommendation is to use a 36mm socket, which I already had from changing the oil in my GTI but had to get a while back specifically for this activity:

File:oilchange10.jpg

5. Remove the filter housing with this 36mm socket:

File:oilchange11.jpg

Here is the old oil filter:

File:oilchange12.jpg

Use a small flat-head screwdriver to remove the O-ring and replace it with the new one:

File:oilchange13.jpg

Here's the new filter ready to go:

File:oilchange14.jpg

6. Place the new oil filter in the housing and re-install the filter housing (tighten with the 36mm socket to 25 Nm torque) and screw the hex bolt back on the bottom.

7. Re-install the drain plug (19mm bolt) and torque to 30 Nm.

8. Re-install the underbelly pan (after getting new fasteners if necessary).

9. Finally, the most fun part: fill'er up with new synthetic oil!!

File:oilchange15.jpg

HPA's recommendation was to use Castrol's "Synthec" in 5W-50, which I had quite a hard time finding locally. For those in the San Francisco area, Cresta Warehouse on 5050 Mission street carries it along with many other oils.

Enjoy!! -Marc

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